Summer Driveway Care: Protecting Against UV and Heat Damage

Summer sun feels great at the beach, but your driveway is sweating it out. UV rays bake the surface, heat expands the pavement, and daily traffic grinds in the damage. A few proactive steps now—while the weather is dry—can prevent spider-web cracks, potholes, and costly replacement next spring. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about Summer Driveway Care so you can enjoy a smooth, safe entrance all year long.

Why Summer Is Tough on Driveways

Asphalt, concrete, pavers, and gravel all react to temperature swings. In June, July, and August, surface temperatures on a typical blacktop driveway can hit 140 °F—hot enough to soften asphalt binders and fade sealcoats. Add afternoon thunderstorms that dump cool water on super-heated pavement and you get thermal shock: rapid contraction that opens micro-cracks. The result? Oxidation, brittleness, and the perfect gateway for water and oil.

How UV and Heat Actually Damage Your Driveway

Asphalt Breakdown

Asphalt is held together by a petroleum binder that acts like glue. UV light oxidizes the top ⅛ inch, turning the flexible binder brittle and gray. Once the glue fails, aggregate loosens, creating raveling and small pits that widen into cracks.

Concrete Surface Scaling

Concrete fares slightly better in heat but still suffers. Rapid moisture loss during curing (or shortly after a pour) causes crazing—tiny surface cracks. In freeze-thaw climates, summer scaling lets water infiltrate, then winter ice jacks the slab apart.

Expansion Joint Stress

Heat makes every material expand. Concrete slabs push against each other and the garage foundation, stressing the expansion joints. When joints are filled with debris or old caulking, pressure has nowhere to go and the edge spalls.

Faded Sealcoats and Color Coatings

Sealcoatings and colored concrete stains contain pigments that UV rays fade quickly. A jet-black driveway can turn charcoal in one summer, reducing curb appeal and thinning the protective layer.

Start With a 15-Minute Driveway Inspection

Pick the Right Time

Inspect early morning or late afternoon when the surface is cooler and shadows highlight defects. Bring a notepad, screwdriver, and camera.

Checklist

1. Color: Gray or whitish asphalt means oxidation has started.
2. Texture: Loose stones on top indicate raveling.
3. Cracks: Note width—hairline vs. pencil-width—and whether they follow a pattern (alligator, longitudinal, transverse).
4. Edges: Look for crumbling where the driveway meets lawn or garage. Edge failure spreads inward quickly.
5. Drainage: Puddles that remain 24 hours after rain will weaken the base.
6. Spills: Oil, gasoline, and fertilizer eat sealers and create soft spots.

Photograph Everything

Photos time-stamp existing damage so you can compare again at the end of summer and measure progress after maintenance.

Step 1: Deep Clean to Remove Heat-Trapping Debris

Remove Organic Matter

Grass clippings, leaves, and berries trap moisture and stain. Use a plastic leaf rake or blower; metal rakes scratch sealcoat.

Oil Spot Treatment

• Blot fresh spots with kitty litter overnight.
• Sweep and scrub with biodegradable degreaser and a stiff nylon brush.
• Rinse with a garden hose; avoid pressure-washer tips closer than 12 inches—they can etch the surface.

Mold and Mildew

Shaded driveways sometimes grow green algae. Mix 1 cup household bleach in 1 gallon water, spray lightly, let dwell 10 minutes, rinse thoroughly. Bleach can lighten asphalt, so test a corner first.

Edge Weeds

Pull by hand or use a vinegar-based herbicide. Avoid salt—it migrates into concrete and corrodes reinforcement.

Step 2: Sealcoat to Block UV and Heat

Timing Rules

• Ambient temp 60–90 °F for 24 hours.
• No rain for at least 24 hours after application.
• Humidity below 70% so the film cures before dew forms.

Choose the Right Sealer

DIY Application Tips

1. Trim edges with a 4-inch brush first.
2. Use a squeegee on a long handle for even pressure.
3. Work in 4×4 ft sections, maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
4. Apply second coat perpendicular to the first for uniform thickness.
5. Keep cars and foot traffic off 24–48 hours; sprinkle sand on fresh sealer for traction if needed.

When to Call a Pro

If your driveway is larger than 1,000 sq ft or has extensive cracks, hiring a sealcoating crew saves time and ensures manufacturer warranties. Pros use silica sand additives for slip resistance and spray systems that lay down a thin, even coat.

Step 3: Fill Cracks Before They Become Potholes

Select Crack Filler

• Asphalt driveways: Use rubberized asphalt crack filler in a caulking tube for gaps ¼–½ inch wide.
• Concrete driveways: Use self-leveling polyurethane sealant for joints and cracks up to ¾ inch.

Prep Like a Pro

1. Chase the crack with a screwdriver or 4-inch grinder to remove vegetation and loose edges.
2. Blow out debris with a leaf blower or compressed air.
3. Insert closed-cell foam backer rod for cracks deeper than ½ inch to save on sealant.

Application

Apply filler slightly proud of the surface so it settles flush. Overfill and tool with a plastic putty knife dipped in soapy water for a smooth finish. Allow 24 hours cure before sealcoating or driving on it.

Step 4: Fix Drainage Issues That Amplify Heat Damage

Check Slope

Driveways should drop ⅛–¼ inch per foot away from the garage. Place a 4-ft level on a 2×4 to gauge low spots.

Install Channel Drains

If puddles persist, cut a trench across the drive, lay in a polymer channel drain, and tie into existing downspout lines. Channel drains prevent standing water from soaking the base and freezing later.

Redirect Downspouts

Add 6-ft extensions so roof runoff doesn’t cascade onto hot pavement, which causes thermal shock.

Step 5: Shade and Cool the Surface

Strategic Landscaping

Plant deciduous trees 10 ft away on the south and west edges. They shade in summer, drop leaves in winter, and roots are less invasive than evergreens.

Porous Paver Alternatives

Installing ribbon driveways or porous pavers in high-heat zones (around turnarounds) allows air and water to move, cooling the surface naturally.

Light-Colored Coatings

Reflective acrylic or epoxy coatings can drop surface temps by 15–20 °F. Ideal for basketball courts or southern exposures.

Summer Care by Driveway Material

Asphalt

• Seal every 2–3 years.
• Spot-seal oil stains immediately.
• Avoid sharp motorcycle kickstands and trailer jacks—they sink into hot asphalt.

Concrete

• Apply penetrating silane-siloxane sealer every 4–5 years.
• Keep joints caulked.
• Hose down occasionally to cool surface and prevent differential expansion.

Pavers

• Sweep polymer sand into joints annually to lock pavers and block UV erosion.
• Use a leaf blower on cool settings; heat can melt cheap plastics into the surface.

Gravel

• Rake high spots back into low areas monthly.
• Add a 1-inch top-up layer of fresh gravel each summer to maintain depth and suppress dust.

Simple Summer Maintenance Schedule

Stick this checklist on your garage fridge and knock out tasks early Saturday morning before the sun climbs high.

Budget: DIY vs. Pro Prices

• DIY sealcoat: $0.15–$0.25 per sq ft (materials only, 5-gal pail covers ~300 sq ft).
• Pro sealcoat: $0.35–$0.60 per sq ft including crack fill and edging.
• DIY crack filler: $8–$12 per tube (covers 50 linear ft of ¼-inch crack).
• Pro hot-rubber crack fill: $1–$2 per linear ft.
• Channel drain install (pro): $50–$70 per linear ft.

On a 600 sq ft driveway, expect $400–$600 for a turnkey pro job vs. $150 in DIY materials plus a Saturday workout.

Frequently Asked Questions About Summer Driveway Care