RV Parking Pad Design and Requirements

Why the Right RV Parking Pad Design and Requirements Matter

An RV is one of the biggest “toys” you’ll ever park at home. A proper RV parking pad protects that investment, keeps neighbors happy, and prevents surprise repair bills caused by sinking, cracking, or runoff. In this guide you’ll learn how to size, site, and spec a residential RV pad that lasts as long as the rig itself.

Start With the Rules—Local Code & HOA Fine Print

Nothing derails a weekend project faster than a red tag from the city or a cranky HOA letter. Do these checks before you pick up a shovel.

City & County Setbacks

Most municipalities treat an RV pad as a “parking surface” or “additional driveway.” Typical rules:

• 5–10 ft setback from side property lines
• 20–30 ft from any street intersection corner
• No part of the pad in the public utility or drainage easement

Call the zoning desk; they’ll email a simple diagram in 24 hrs.

HOA Covenants

Many HOAs limit the total square footage of impervious surface or require turf-strip buffers. Ask for the “architectural modification” form—submit a sketch, get written approval, and keep it in your project folder.

Permit vs. No Permit

If you’re pouring concrete thicker than 4 in or installing any electrical stub-out, most counties want a permit. Gravel-only pads under 200 sq ft often don’t, but always double-check.

Right-Sizing the Pad—Footprint That Fits Your Rig

Class A, C, or Fifth-Wheel? Match the Dimensions

Measure the total length bumper-to-hitch, add 3 ft front and back for walk-around space. Width is 8½ ft plus 2 ft per side for mirrors and swing. Quick chart:

• Class B van (20 ft long) → 26 ft × 12 ft pad
• Class C (28 ft) → 34 ft × 12 ft pad
• Class A + toad (45 ft combined) → 51 ft × 14 ft pad

Turn-Aisle & Gate Clearance

You need at least 14 ft of unobstructed width on the approach and a 30 ft turning radius so the tail doesn’t clip the fence. Pro tip: spray-paint the outline on the grass and do a dry run before the concrete truck shows up.

Future-Proofing

Even if you own a 25-footer now, add an extra 5 ft of length and 1 ft of width. The incremental cost is minimal compared to a second pour later.

Build a Foundation That Won’t Flex or Flood

Soil Test First

Clay-heavy soils common across Texas and the Southeast expand and contract. A simple jar test (or a $150 soil report) tells you if you need 2 in of extra base or geogrid reinforcement.

Excavation Depth

Strip topsoil and organic matter down to firm sub-grade—usually 10–12 in below final surface. Any soft spots get removed and replaced with compacted crushed stone.

Base Layer Recipe

1. Geotextile fabric to stop fine migration
2. 6–8 in of 1¼-in crushed limestone (CA-6 or equivalent)
3. Compact in 4-in lifts with a plate compactor (98 % Standard Proctor)

Skipping the fabric is the #1 cause of pad settlement we see on service calls.

Drainage Slope

Minimum 1 % (⅛ in per foot) away from buildings. For pads wider than 12 ft, crown the center ¼ in so water sheds both ways instead of creating a river along the RV wall.

Choose the Surface—Concrete, Asphalt, or Permeable Pavers

Reinforced Concrete (Most Popular)

• Thickness: 5 in for RVs up to 16 000 lb; 6 in for heavier or dual-axle trailers
• Rebar: #4 bars 18 in on-center each way, 2 in above bottom
• Concrete strength: 4 000 psi minimum, 6 % air entrainment for freeze zones
• Control joints every 10–12 ft in both directions; seal joints with polyurethane

Expect 30–40 years of service if sealed every 3–5 years.

Asphalt (Budget-Friendly)

3-in binder + 1½-in wearing course over the same 8-in stone base. Add geogrid if springtime softness is an issue. Seal-coat every 3 years and keep hot tires off for 24 hrs after parking.

Permeable Pavers (Green Option)

Open-cell concrete pavers filled with #8 aggregate let rainwater soak in, reducing runoff fees. Load rating 60 000 lb when installed over 12-in clean stone base—perfect for RVs. Vacuum sweep annually to keep voids open.

Add-Ons That Make RV Life Easier

30/50-Amp Electrical Stub-Up

Bury 1¼-in PVC conduit from the main panel before the pour. Stub up flush with the surface and cap it. After the concrete cures, pull THHN wire and install a RV box on a powder-coated post.

Water & Sewer Ports

Frost-free hydrant 18 in from pad edge plus a 4-in sewer clean-out for black-tank rinsing. Both should tie into the house system before the meter so you’re billed only for actual use.

Lighting & Cameras

Low-voltage LED bollards every 20 ft prevent trip hazards and deter theft. Run ¾-in low-voltage conduit in the same trench as the electrical—saves a second dig.

Real-World Pricing (2024 Averages)

Prices include standard 12-ft × 40-ft pad, 8-in stone base, local permits, and 5-year workmanship warranty.

• Plain gray concrete 5-in: $8–$10 per sq ft = $3 800–$4 800
• Stamped & colored concrete: +$3 per sq ft
• Asphalt: $5–$7 per sq ft
• Permeable pavers: $12–$14 per sq ft
• Electrical stub-up only: $450–$650
• Full 50-Amp post & breaker: $1 200–$1 500

Get three itemized bids; the lowest seldom includes the rebar or the permit fees.

Protect Your Investment—Simple Maintenance Schedule

Every Spring

• Pressure-wash to remove antifreeze and road salt
• Inspect joints; refill if wider than ¼ in

Every 3 Years

• Apply silane-siloxane sealer to concrete (15 cents per sq ft DIY)

Every 5 Years

• Re-level gravel edges where tires have pushed outward
• Check electrical box for corrosion; replace gasket if cracked

DIY or Hire a Drivewayz Pro?

Homeowners can save 40 % on labor by doing their own gravel prep and forming, but leave the concrete pour and electrical to certified crews. One rookie mistake—like adding too much water to the mix—can cut strength in half and void warranties. Drivewayz USA offers turnkey RV pad packages with engineered drawings, permit handling, and a 10-year structural warranty—no surprises, no callbacks.

Frequently Asked Questions