Resin-Bound Driveway Installation Guide

What a Resin-Bound Driveway Really Is

A resin-bound driveway is a single-layer mixture of kiln-dried aggregate stones and clear UV-stable resin, trowelled onto a solid base to create a smooth, porous, SuDS-compliant surface. Unlike resin-bonded systems (where resin is spread first and stone scattered on top), every chip in a resin-bound surface is fully coated, locking the stones in place and leaving tiny voids that let water drain through.

The result? No loose gravel, no puddles, and a seamless finish that stays flexible enough to cope with freeze-thaw cycles. Homeowners love the custom colour blends, contemporary look, and the fact it can often be laid over an existing sound base, cutting both mess and cost.

Why Homeowners Choose Resin-Bound Over Block Paving or Concrete

Puddle-Free, Puddle-Proof

Because the surface is permeable, rain drains straight through. That eliminates standing water, reduces ice formation in winter, and keeps you on the right side of front-garden SuDS regulations.

Weed & Frost Resistance

With no sand joints, weeds have nowhere to sprout. The flexible resin also copes with sub-zero expansion, so you’ll see fewer cracks than with brittle concrete slabs.

Design Flexibility

Choose from 40+ standard aggregate colours, mix custom blends, inset decorative borders, or even embed LED marker lights. The smooth finish also complements modern and period properties alike.

Low Maintenance

An occasional pressure-wash (low setting, wide fan) keeps it looking new. Seal every 4–5 years if your installer recommends it, and you’re done.

Planning & Preparation: Start With the End in Mind

Measure Twice, Order Once

Draw a simple sketch and divide the area into rectangles. Length × width = m². Add 5% extra for cuts and wastage. Note the gradient: you need a 1:80 fall toward a drainage channel or lawn for extreme downpours.

Check Local Rules

• Front garden over 5 m² must use permeable material or provide soakaway—resin-bound ticks that box.
• Listed building or conservation area? Seek consent for colour and edge profile.
• Drop kerb still required if you cross a public footpath—contact your council highways team.

Choose the Right Resin

• UV-stable polyurethane: won’t yellow; essential for greys, buffs, creams.
• Non-UV MR (moisture-resistant): cheaper, fine under cars or if you select a dark aggregate.

Choose the Right Aggregate

Go for 6–10 mm size for driveways; smaller 3–6 mm for paths. Angular granite or basalt locks best. Ask for a recent grading certificate—dust content must be <1% or the mix turns sloppy.

Base Options: What You Can (and Can’t) Lay Resin Bound Over

Best Practice: Open-Grade Tarmac or Concrete

A 50 mm open-graded macadam (porous asphalt) laid over 150 mm Type 3 sub-base is the gold standard. Water drains down, the resin layer bonds, and you meet SuDS. Expect 25+ years life.

Existing Concrete

Only if it’s crack-free, 100 mm thick, and has a brushed/keyed surface. Diamond-grind to remove laitance, then prime with a polymer bonding coat. Drill 8 mm weep holes every m² if the slab is non-porous.

Block Paving

Not recommended as a direct base: blocks move, creating reflection cracks. Lift them, lay a geotextile, then 50 mm porous asphalt instead.

Edge Restraints Are Non-Negotiable

Resin-bound mix is 15–18 mm thick and needs a solid shoulder. Use concrete kerbs, aluminium edge rails, or brick soldiers set in concrete haunching. Height should finish 3–5 mm below final resin level so you can trowel flush.

Tools & Materials Checklist

• Forced-action mixer (paddle mixers cause balling)
• Steel float trowels with cork or plastic blades
• Spiked roller 450 mm wide to release trapped air
• UV-stable resin plus activator (buy fresh—6-month shelf life)
• Kiln-dried aggregate, bagged and kept dry
• Digital scales (ratio is usually 100 parts stone : 7 parts resin by weight)
• Screed rails or 18 mm shuttering ply for depth control
• Clean wheelbarrow, nitrile gloves, spiked shoes

Step-by-Step Resin-Bound Driveway Installation Guide

Step 1: Dry & Warm Day

Air + surface temp 5–25 °C, relative humidity <80%. Rain within 4 h? Stop. Cover base with tarp the night before to keep dew off.

Step 2: Mix Resin First

Tip Part A (resin) into tub, add Part B (hardener), mix 60 s with paddle on slow speed until streak-free. Let it stand 2 min so air rises.

Step 3: Load Aggregate

Pour two 25 kg bags of kiln-dried stone into forced-action mixer. Add one 3.5 kg batch of mixed resin. Mix 60–90 s until every chip glistens—no dry patches.

Step 4: Tip, Spread, Trowel

Work in 1 m² “bays” so you can reach without walking on fresh mix. Tip mix, rake roughly level with a lute, then compact with steel float using firm, even strokes. Keep trowel at 5° angle to avoid dragging.

Step 5: Spike Roll

Immediately spike-roll the area to release trapped air and achieve uniform texture. Work cross-ways, then length-ways.

Step 6: Repeat & Blend

Butt each fresh load against the still-wet edge so you get a seamless join. Never leave a cold joint more than 10 min old.

Step 7: Cure & Protect

Foot traffic: 6 h. Car traffic: 24 h at 20 °C; add 12 h for every 5 °C drop below that. Cordon off with cones and warning tape—curious dogs and bicycles love fresh resin.

Pro Tips for a Flawless Finish

• Work backwards: Start at the garage door and move toward the street so you’re always trowelling into fresh mix.
• Keep a spare board: If you need to pause, tip the last mix onto a plywood off-cut and carry it away—prevents a hardened lump in your wheelbarrow.
• Colour consistency: Buy all aggregate from the same quarry batch number; colour shift between loads is the #1 complaint.
• Thickness gauge: Slide a 15 mm spacer under a straight edge every few metres; top up low spots before the mix stiffens.

Common DIY Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Adding Extra Resin “Just in Case”

Too much binder = shiny, slippery surface and eventual cracking. Stick to manufacturer ratios; weigh, don’t guess.

Skipping the Weed Membrane on New Bases

Weeds won’t grow through the resin, but they can push through sub-base cracks. Lay a geotextile under Type 3 stone.

Using a Regular Cement Mixer

Gravity mixers smear resin on the drum, leaving dry pockets. Hire a forced-action mixer for one weekend—it’s cheaper than redoing 40 m².

Project Costs & Timeframe

Professional Prices (2024 Averages, USA)

• Supply & lay new porous base + resin: $10–$14 per ft² ($108–$150 per m²)
• Overlay existing sound concrete: $7–$10 per ft² ($75–$108 per m²)
• Premium aggregates (marble, recycled glass): add $1–$2 per ft²

DIY Budget

• Materials only: $4–$5 per ft² ($43–$54 per m²) including resin, aggregate, primer, edges.
• Tool hire (mixer, spiked roller): $200 weekend rate.
• Typical 600 ft² (56 m²) driveway: materials ≈ $2,800 vs. $6,500 pro quote—saving 55% if your labour is free.

How Long Does It Take?

Prep base: 1–2 days. Prime: 1 h. Mix & lay: 1 h per 15 m² with two people. Clean-up: 30 min. Realistic total: 3 days for 600 ft² including cure time before cars return.

Aftercare & Long-Term Maintenance

First 48 Hours

Keep pets, bikes, and deliveries off. If leaves blow on, leave them—brushing can imprint streaks.

Seasonal Care

• Spring: Low-pressure rinse to remove winter grit. Re-sand any exposed edges.
• Summer: Avoid turning car wheels while stationary—pivoting can scuff fresh resin on very hot days.
• Autumn: Clear leaves promptly; tannin stains from oak/maple can be removed with mild degreaser.
• Winter: Use plastic-edged shovels; rock salt is safe but rinse away slush to prevent white film.

Re-Sealing

Not always needed, but if the surface starts to dull or water no longer beads, roll on a clear polyurethane seal coat at 6 m² per litre. One coat every 5 years is plenty.

FAQ: Quick Answers From the Drivewayz Pros