How to Level Sunken Paver Driveways

Why Your Paver Driveway Is Sinking

A once-flat paver driveway can start to dip, tilt, or rock after only a few seasons. The problem is rarely the pavers themselves—concrete and clay units can last 50-plus years. What shifts is what’s underneath: the base, bedding sand, or edge restraints. When these layers erode, settle, or wash out, gaps form and the surface drops.

Understanding how to level sunken paver driveways starts with spotting the early signs:

• Visible low spots that collect water longer than 24 hours
• Pavers that rock under car tires or foot traffic
• Weeds or ants pushing sand up between joints
• Cracked pavers at the dip center (a sign the base has already collapsed)

Fixing the issue promptly prevents bigger headaches—trip hazards, tire mis-alignment, and freeze-thaw damage that can triple repair costs.

Step 1: Assess the Sunken Area Like a Pro

Before you lift a single paver, measure how far the surface has dropped and why. A quick visual check can miss a ¼-inch crown or subtle slope toward the garage. Use these DIY tools:

Gather These Items

• 4-foot level or straight 2×4
• Tape measure
• Spray paint or chalk
• Garden hose with a gentle spray

Mark the Low Spots

Lay the level perpendicular to the driveway’s slope. Any gap greater than ⅛-inch under the center indicates a dip worth fixing. Outline the affected area with chalk; this becomes your work zone and helps you buy the right amount of base material.

Check for Water Flow

Turn on the hose and flood the driveway. Water should sheet toward the street or a drain within five minutes. If it puddles inside your chalk line, that’s where the base has compacted or washed away.

Step 2: Remove the Pavers Safely

The biggest rookie mistake is prying pavers up from the top edges; chips and cracks are almost guaranteed. Instead, use two flat-head screwdrivers or specialized paver-extractor tongs. Wiggle side-to-side, not up-and-down, until the unit lifts free.

Number & Stack

As you lift, crayon a small number on the paver’s underside and draw a simple map on cardboard. This “paver puzzle” saves hours when you re-lay them in the exact pattern.

Store on Edge

Stack pavers vertically on plywood set in the yard. Laying them flat risks rainwater splashing dirt onto the finished surface later.

Step 3: Rebuild the Foundation (Base & Bedding Layers)

Most driveways sink because the ¾-inch crushed-stone base was under-compacted, too thin, or eroded by roof runoff. For vehicle traffic, you need a 6-inch compacted base in warm climates and 8–10 inches where freeze-thaw cycles occur.

Excavate to Firm Soil

Scoop out sunken material until you reach undisturbed soil or the depth that equals your target base thickness. Keep the bottom flat so plate-compactor weight is even.

Add Crushed Stone in 3-Inch Lifts

Dump CR-6 or #57 stone in 3-inch layers. Spray lightly and compact each lift with a rented plate compactor (available for $60–$75/day). Pass over the area at least twice in overlapping pattern. Proper compaction feels almost like concrete—no footprints should show.

Screed 1 Inch of Concrete Sand

Place two 1-inch electrical conduit pipes on the compacted base. Spread coarse concrete sand (not masonry sand) between them. Drag a 2×4 across the pipes to create a perfectly flat bedding layer. Carefully remove pipes and fill the voids with sand.

Step 4: Re-lay & Level the Pavers

Start From the Straightest Edge

Butt the first paver against an untouched section so joint lines stay consistent. Use a rubber mallet to tap each unit level; check with a short level every third paver.

Maintain Joint Gaps

Factory spacers or the original pattern usually give ⅛-inch joints. Don’t butt pavers tight—thermal expansion will pop edges later.

Add or Remove Sand as You Go

If a paver sits proud, scoop sand out; if it rocks, sprinkle a handful and tap again. Work across the width so your body weight stays off freshly set stones.

Step 5: Secure the Edges & Lock Everything In

Even a perfectly leveled field can sag again if edge restraints fail. Plastic or aluminum edging should sit ½-inch below paver height and be staked every 12 inches with 10-inch steel spikes.

Sweep in Polymeric Sand

Once all pavers are down and the surface is completely dry, spread polymeric sand. Use a push broom to work it into joints until they’re full. Remove every grain from the surface—leftovers will harden and stain.

Plate-Compact & Mist

Run the compactor over the pavers (with a rubber pad or piece of carpet to prevent scuffing). This vibrates sand deeper into joints. Mist lightly with a hose; stop before runoff. Let the sand cure 24 hours before driving on it.

Prevent Future Sinking: Simple Drainage Tweaks

Water is the enemy of base stone. After you level sunken paver driveways, add these safeguards:

• Install a 4-inch perforated drain pipe along the garage footer if water races off the roof.
• Seal pavers every 3–5 years to reduce water infiltration.
• Keep gutters clean so downspouts don’t dump 600 gallons per storm next to the edge.
• Backfill planting beds beside the driveway with 2 inches of mulch; it slows sheet flow.

Tools & Materials Checklist

• Rented plate compactor (350–500 lb model)
• Flat-head screwdrivers or paver extractor
• Wheelbarrow, square shovel, and landscape rake
• 4-foot level, tape measure, chalk line
• Crushed stone (CR-6 or #57) – 0.6 ton per 10 sq ft at 6-inch depth
• Concrete sand – 1 bag covers ~6 sq ft at 1-inch depth
• Polymeric sand – 1 50-lb bag covers 60–80 sq ft for narrow joints
• Edge restraints and 10-inch steel spikes
• Rubber mallet and push broom

Typical Cost to Level Sunken Paver Driveways

DIY repairs average $3–$5 per square foot for material rentals and new base. Hiring a professional paver-restoration crew runs $8–$12 per square foot, including a 5-year workmanship warranty. Price climbs if:

• More than 30% of the driveway is affected
• Drainage pipe must be added
• You upgrade to thicker pavers or a permeable base

Even at the higher end, leveling beats a full replacement ($15–$20 per sq ft) and can add 10–15 years to the driveway’s life.

When to Call a Driveway Professional

Some conditions make DIY risky:

• Sinking extends under a retaining wall or porch footing
• Overhead power lines prevent safe compactor operation
• Drainage requires tying into a municipal storm system
• Your HOA demands a licensed contractor for warranty compliance

Drivewayz USA crews carry plate compactors that deliver 5,000 lbs of force—double most rental units—ensuring base density that lasts.

Frequently Asked Questions