How to Fix Paver Driveways: Settling and Shifting Issues

Why Paver Driveways Settle & Shift

Interlocking pavers are beautiful, but they’re only as stable as the ground beneath them. Over time, freeze-thaw cycles, poor compaction, water erosion and everyday vehicle loads cause slight movements. Left alone, those tiny shifts turn into sunken ruts, trip hazards and drainage headaches.

The good news? Individual pavers can be lifted and re-set without tearing out the entire driveway. The process is straightforward, requires only basic tools and costs a fraction of a full replacement—if you catch the problem early.

Diagnosing the Problem Before You Lift a Single Paver

Walk-Through Inspection Checklist

1. Visual low spots: Look for bird-baths that hold water 24 h after rain.
2. Edge drop-off: Check if the driveway perimeter is lower than the lawn—sign of lateral spreading.
3. Joint gaps: Gaps wider than ¼-inch indicate pavers have migrated.
4. Rocking pavers: Tap each suspect stone; movement means bedding sand has washed out.
5. Cracks in pavers: Rare, but point to point-loading or insufficient base depth.

Tools for Measuring Settlement

• 4-ft level or straight 2×4
• Tape measure (to record dip depth)
• Chalk or painter’s tape to outline affected area
• Smartphone camera—date-stamp photos for “before & after” proof

Gathering the Right Materials & Tools

One trip to the home-center is usually enough. Buy 5–10 % extra sand and pavers so you’re not short if you break a few.

• Flat shovel or paver lifter
• Two sturdy putty knives (to pry pavers without chipping)
• Hand tamper or 10″x10″ steel plate you can whack with a sledge
• Vibratory plate compactor (rent for $45–$60 half-day)
• Coarse concrete sand (ASTM C33) not masonry sand—angular grains lock better
• Polymeric sand for re-sweeping joints
• Landscape fabric (if spot-fixing over clay soil)
• Work gloves, knee pads, safety glasses
• Optional: edge restraint spikes, drainage gravel (#57 stone)

Prepping the Work Area

Mark & Protect

Outline the repair zone 1 ft beyond visible settlement. Spray-paint the perimeter so you don’t chase loose pavers across the yard.

Cut & Lift the First Paver

Insert two putty knives into a joint, twist gently and the paver pops up. Stack pavers on a plywood sheet in the same pattern—you’ll save time re-installing.

Photograph the Base

Snap a picture of the exposed base layer; it’s your reference for reassembly depth.

Step-by-Step: Fixing Settled Areas

1. Excavate to Firm Soil

Remove sand and aggregate until you hit compacted subgrade—usually 6–10 in below finished paver height for driveways. If soil is spongy, go deeper and add 4 in of #57 stone.

2. Add & Compact Base Layer

Install ¾-minus crushed concrete in 3-in lifts. Compact each lift with a plate compactor until you can’t push a screwdriver more than ½-in into the surface. Aim for 98 % Standard Proctor density (rental yards can supply a spec sheet).

3. Screed Bedding Sand

Spread 1 in of coarse concrete sand. Drag a 1-in diameter pipe or 2×4 as a screed rail. Do NOT compact the bedding sand—the paver vibration will do that.

4. Re-lay Pavers

Start from the lowest point and work outward. Maintain original pattern bond lines; use a rubber mallet to seat each unit level with its neighbors.

5. Final Compaction & Polymeric Sand

Run the plate compactor over the repaired section with a rubber mat or scrap of carpet to prevent scuffing. Sweep polymeric sand into joints, blow off excess with a leaf blower and mist lightly to activate the binder.

Stopping Future Shifting: Edge Restraints & Drainage

Install or Upgrade Edge Restraints

Plastic or aluminum edging should sit ½-in below paver height and be anchored every 8–10 in with 10-in steel spikes. Without restraints, vehicle tires push pavers sideways season after season.

Improve Water Flow

Ensure gutters discharge at least 5 ft from the driveway. Add a French drain along the low side if water pools. Water is the #1 reason base materials wash out.

Cold-Weather Repairs: Heaving & Freeze-Thaw

• Wait until soil temperature is above 40 °F for 48 h so the base is workable.
• Use open-graded #57 stone under the base—air gaps give freezing water room to expand.
• After re-installation, seal the driveway next dry season; sealers reduce water infiltration by 75 %.

Common DIY Mistakes to Avoid

1. Skipping compaction: Hand tamping feels solid—until the first rain.
2. Using masonry sand: It’s too fine and pumps out under load.
3. Thin lifts: Trying to compact 6 in of gravel at once leaves soft spots.
4. Forgetting the bond line: Misaligned patterns telegraph unevenness.

When to Call a Professional Paver Crew

Call Drivewayz USA if:

• Settlement exceeds 3 in across more than 100 sq ft—entire base may be inadequate.
• You see continuous cracks in the sub-slab (indicates structural slab beneath pavers).
• Driveway butts against a retaining wall—wall movement complicates repairs.

Professional crews bring laser levels, heavier compactors and can match faded paver colors from multiple suppliers.

Cost Breakdown: DIY vs. Pro

Factor in your time and the learning curve; a pro warranty may pay for itself if you plan to sell soon.

Year-Round Maintenance Tips

• Spring: Re-sweep polymeric sand into any empty joints; apply a breathable paver sealer every 3–4 years.
• Summer: Keep heavy trucks (concrete, roofing) off the edge; distribute weight with plywood.
• Fall: Blow leaves promptly—organic acids stain and break down joint sand.
• Winter: Use plastic shovels; avoid rock salt. Calcium chloride melts ice with less freeze-thaw cycling.

Frequently Asked Questions