Driveway Permits: What They Are and Why They Matter
Driveway permits are the green light your local government gives before you touch the curb, sidewalk, or public right-of-way. Skip them and you risk stop-work orders, fines, or even ripping out brand-new concrete. The good news? Most permits are straightforward once you know the steps.
In this guide you’ll learn how to find the rules for your zip code, what paperwork to prepare, how long the process takes, and how to keep costs low. Whether you’re widening an apron, adding a circular drive, or converting grass to gravel, the same principles apply.
Do You Actually Need a Driveway Permit?
Check the “Public Right-of-Way” Rule
If any part of the project crosses public property—curb, gutter, sidewalk, utility strip—you need a permit. Private land only? You still need one if the driveway connects to a public street.
Common Triggers That Require a Permit
- Installing or widening an apron (the sloped section that meets the street)
- Adding a second curb cut for a side entry
- Replacing damaged sidewalk or curb under city jurisdiction
- Changing the drainage path (e.g., adding a culvert)
When You Might Be Exempt
Resurfacing asphalt or sealing concrete on an existing footprint usually doesn’t require a permit. Check anyway—some counties now regulate seal-coating due to environmental runoff rules.
Types of Driveway Permits You’ll See
Residential Curb Cut Permit
Allows you to cut the curb and create or widen the driveway opening. Usually issued by the public-works or transportation department.
Right-of-Way (ROW) Permit
Covers any work in the public strip—sidewalk, utility lines, street trees. Often bundled with the curb-cut permit.
Storm-Water or Drainage Permit
Required if your new drive adds more than 500 sq ft of impervious surface. You may need a simple runoff calculation or a full engineered drainage plan.
HOA or ARC Approval
Separate from city paperwork. Many HOAs have color, material, and width rules. Get this first; cities sometimes ask for the HOA letter before they’ll accept your permit application.
How to Apply for a Driveway Permit: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Call 811 and Your Local Permit Office
Start with the “One-Call” hotline to mark utilities. Then phone the city permit desk; ask for the exact checklist and the name of the inspector who handles driveways.
Step 2: Measure Twice, Draw Once
Sketch a simple site plan showing:
- Property lines
- Existing and proposed curb cuts
- Side setbacks (distance to neighbor’s property)
- Sidewalk, fire hydrants, utility poles
Free online tools like Google Earth plus a 100-ft tape measure are accurate enough for most residential permits.
Step 3: Choose Your Materials Early
Some cities restrict width or color of pavers near the ROW. Deciding on concrete, asphalt, or permeable pavers now prevents redraws later.
Step 4: Submit the Application Package
Typical packet includes:
- Completed application form
- Site plan (1–2 pages, hand-drawn OK)
- Driveway material specs
- HOA approval letter (if applicable)
- Proof of contractor insurance
Most cities accept PDF upload; a few still want in-person drop-off.
Step 5: Pay Fees and Schedule Inspection
Fees range from $50 in rural towns to $400+ in major metros. Inspections happen in two phases: (1) pre-pour for forms and elevations, (2) final after concrete is cured.
Timeline: How Long Does Approval Take?
- Small town / rural county: 3–5 business days
- Suburban city: 1–2 weeks
- Large metro (e.g., L.A., Atlanta): 4–6 weeks; longer if drainage review is required
Expedited review is sometimes available for an extra $100–$250. Ask—don’t assume.
Driveway Permit Costs & How to Save
Typical Fee Breakdown
| Item | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Curb-cut permit | $50 – $200 |
| ROW permit | $75 – $250 |
| Drainage review | $0 – $500 |
| Re-inspection fee | $25 – $75 |
Money-Saving Tips
- Bundle multiple small jobs (walkway + apron) under one permit to avoid duplicate base fees.
- Submit during off-peak months (Dec–Feb) when reviewers have lighter workloads.
- Include photos of neighboring driveways; if they match your plan, staff approvals are faster.
Common Mistakes Homeowners Make
Mistake 1: Guessing the Setback
Placing the new driveway 1 ft closer to the neighbor can trigger a variance hearing. Measure from the property pin, not the edge of your lawn.
Mistake 2: Ignoring Tree Ordinances
Street trees larger than 6 in diameter usually can’t be removed without an arborist report. Factor this into the timeline.
Mistake 3: Starting Work on “Pending” Status
Some contractors say, “We’ll pour while the permit is pending.” If the city changes a detail, you eat the cost of removal and repour.
Working With a Contractor: Permit Responsibilities
Who Pulls the Permit?
Most reputable driveway companies will handle permits as part of the contract. Always verify:
- The permit is in your name or the contractor’s (either is legal; just know who gets the fine if something’s wrong).
- You receive a copy of the stamped approved plan before demolition starts.
Questions to Ask Before You Sign
- “Is the permit fee included in your quote?”
- “What happens if the city asks for plan revisions—who pays?”
- “Will you schedule inspections or do I have to be home?”
DIY Driveways: Extra Steps for Homeowners
Doing it yourself can save $3–$6 per sq ft in labor, but you’re still liable for code compliance.
Required Extra Paperwork
- Owner-builder affidavit
- Proof of liability insurance
- Competency card (some counties demand a short concrete course)
Renting Equipment vs. City Rules
You can rent a concrete saw, but only licensed subcontractors can cut a public curb in many cities. Check before you spend $200 on blade rental.
Passing the Final Inspection the First Time
Pre-Pour Checklist
- Forms are straight and at the correct elevation (usually ½ in above gutter flow line).
- Rebar or wire mesh is 2 in above base rock, chaired up.
- Expansion joint at the existing sidewalk is installed.
Post-Pour Checklist
- No puddles deeper than ¼ in 24 hours after rain.
- Curb mirror finish matches city standard (broom vs. smooth).
- Address number is visibly stenciled on the new curb (some cities require).
Take date-stamped photos of every stage; inspectors love quick email proof if questions arise later.
Frequently Asked Questions About Driveway Permits
Most municipalities allow 10–12 ft per lane, max 30 ft total frontage for a two-car drive. Corner lots often have a 15 ft radius restriction near the intersection. Always verify with your local transportation department; exceeding the limit requires a variance that can add 4–6 weeks.
If you stay behind the sidewalk and off the public right-of-way, many cities allow “parking pads” without a ROW permit. However, you still need a zoning compliance letter for impervious surface ratios and landscaping rules. HOAs may prohibit grass removal outright.
Expect a stop-work order, a fine ($250–$1,000), and possible removal of the new work. You’ll then have to apply for after-the-fact approval, which doubles the normal fee in most jurisdictions. Insurance claims can also be denied if unpermitted work damages a utility line.
Yes—typically 6–12 months from issue date. If your contractor delays, you can request one extension (30–90 days) for a small fee. After that you’ll resubmit and repay the base fee, so lock in your construction schedule before applying.