Driveway Permits and Regulations in Washington

Why Driveway Permits Matter in Washington State

Installing or widening a driveway looks simple—until you learn that every inch of curb, sidewalk, and apron is regulated. Washington’s cities and counties require permits to keep streets safe, manage storm-water runoff, and protect public utilities. Skipping the permit can trigger stop-work orders, fines, or even a forced tear-out. This guide walks you through the entire process so your project stays legal, on budget, and on schedule.

Who Actually Requires the Permit?

Responsibility sits with the property owner, but your contractor should handle the paperwork. Know which table to sit at before you sign any agreement.

City vs. County Jurisdiction

Inside an incorporated city limit? The Public Works or Transportation Department usually issues driveway permits. Live in unincorporated areas? The county roads division takes over. If your street is a state route (think SR- or US-numbered), you’ll need an extra stamp from Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT). A quick parcel search on your county assessor’s website clarifies who governs you.

HOA & Private Road Add-Ons

Homeowners associations can tack on architectural-review approval, and private road agreements may demand shared-cost formulas. Get these green lights before the city reviews your plans; they won’t issue a permit if private covenants are still unsettled.

Types of Driveway Permits in Washington

Not all permits are created equal. Choosing the right category up front prevents costly change orders.

Standard Residential Access Permit

Required for new connections to a public road. Covers the apron (the sloped section from street to sidewalk) and the first 2–5 ft of driveway within the right-of-way. Expect a 5- to 10-day review.

Expansion or Widening Permit

Turning a single-car driveway into a two-car width or adding a parking pad still counts as “new impervious surface” in many jurisdictions. You’ll submit a revised site plan showing new square footage and storm-water flow paths.

Commercial & Multi-Family Permits

Projects generating higher traffic (churches, daycares, home businesses) trigger a Traffic Impact Analysis and often require engineered drawings stamped by a Washington-licensed civil engineer.

Utility & Right-of-Way Obstruction Permits

If your driveway crosses water, sewer, or power lines, you’ll need a separate utility clearance. Marking “no conflict” on the site plan speeds approval.

Step-by-Step Permit Process

1. Pre-Application Site Check

• Call 811 two business days prior for free utility locates.
• Measure your lot width and note sidewalk slopes; some cities cap driveway width at 30 ft for lots under 80 ft wide.
• Photograph existing curb, drainage, and any street trees—these photos become part of your file.

2. Draw & Document

Most jurisdictions accept hand-drawn site plans if they’re to scale (1" = 10 ft minimum). Show:

1. Property lines, house footprint, and all existing/proposed hard surfaces.
2. Driveway radius and flare dimensions (standard 10-ft radius is common).
3. Arrow indicating storm-water direction; note any onsite infiltration like a rain garden.

3. Submit & Pay Fees

Online portals (e.g., Seattle’s “SDCI Portal” or Spokane’s “Accela”) accept PDF uploads. Typical fees run $75–$250 for residential, $500+ for commercial. Keep a credit card ready; most systems tack on a 2.5 % processing charge.

4. City/County Review & Revisions

Reviewers check sight-distance triangles, sidewalk continuity, and tree-root zones. If revisions are needed, you usually get one free resubmit; after that, hourly review fees apply.

5. Permit Issuance & Validity Window

Once approved, you have 6–12 months to start work (varies by city). Request an extension in writing if material delays hit; most agencies grant one 6-month extension at no extra cost.

6. Inspections & Final Sign-Off

• Pre-construction: Inspector verifies marked utilities.
• Form & grade: After excavation but before concrete pour.
• Final: Once concrete reaches 75 % design strength (typically day 7). Lock in your inspection slot online; Saturday inspections cost extra in some counties.

Key Design Rules You Can’t Ignore

Width & Slope Limits

Bellevue allows up to 40 % of lot frontage, while Tacoma caps at 50 %. Maximum longitudinal slope within the right-of-way is 12 % for standard passenger vehicles; anything steeper needs a waiver and possibly a heated driveway to prevent ice buildup.

Clear Vision Triangle

No portion of your driveway can obstruct the 2.5-ft-high sight line measured 10 ft back from the curb line. Fences, retaining walls, and even tall ornamental rocks must stay outside this zone.

Drainage & Low-Impact Development (LID)

Washington’s 2021 Stormwater Manual mandates onsite infiltration for new impervious surfaces over 500 ft². A permeable paver strip or 2-ft gravel edge along the driveway often satisfies LID credits without a full detention pond.

Tree Preservation

Removing a street tree (>6 in. diameter) triggers a 2:1 replacement ratio. Root pruning must be done with an air spade; chainsaws within the drip line are prohibited from April–August to protect nesting wildlife.

Typical Costs & Budget Tips

Permit Fees by Metro Area

• Seattle: $157 base + $0.45/ft² of new hard surface.
• Spokane: $95 residential flat fee.
• Vancouver (Clark County): $115 + $40 inspection.

Hidden Expenses to Plan For

1. Traffic control plan: $150 if your street is an arterial.
2. Curb painting: $3–$4 per linear foot subcontracted.
3. Storm-water engineering: $1,200–$2,000 for lots over 7,000 ft².

DIY Savings vs. Professional Help

You can draw your own site plan, but hiring a driveway specialist who bundles permit handling with construction often saves 10–15 % overall. They buy concrete in bulk and know which inspectors prefer 6-in. vs. 8-in. apron thickness.

Realistic Timeline from Application to First Car Parked

• Week 1: Site measurements, utility locates, plan drawing.
• Week 2: Submit application and fees.
• Week 3–4: City review & possible revisions.
• Week 5: Permit issued, schedule contractor.
• Week 6: Excavation, form set, pre-pour inspection.
• Week 7: Concrete pour (day 1), cure & cut control joints (day 2–3).
• Week 8: Final inspection, curb painting, remove forms.

Weather delays in the Pacific Northwest can add 1–2 weeks; late October through March is the riskiest window.

Common Violations & How to Avoid Them

Pouring Without a Permit

Penalty: double the original permit fee plus a $500 cease-and-desist fine. Solution: Pull the permit even for “like-for-like” replacements; many cities now interpret new concrete as “new impervious area.”

Wrong Curb Cut Radius

A too-tight 5-ft radius can snag fire-truck mirrors. Stick to the standard 10-ft unless your city explicitly allows 5-ft on local access streets.

Blocking Drainage Swales

Never back-fill over a roadside ditch. Convert it to a culvert pipe with headwalls and get a hydraulic study.

Over-Cutting City Sidewalk

Score, don’t saw, expansion joints; cutting deeper than 1 in. weakens the sidewalk and can shift liability for future trips and falls to you.

Homeowner Quick-Checklist

• ☐ Verify jurisdiction (city, county, or WSDOT).
• ☐ Call 811 for utility locates.
• ☐ Measure lot width & calculate max driveway width.
• ☐ Draw to-scale site plan with drainage arrows.
• ☐ Submit permit application & pay online.
• ☐ Schedule pre-construction inspection.
• ☐ Pour concrete, cut joints, cure 7 days.
• ☐ Book final inspection & curb painting.
• ☐ Store permit card for resale disclosure.

Frequently Asked Questions