Driveway Final Payment: What Every Homeowner Should Know Before Signing the Last Check
The day your new driveway is poured or paved feels like a finish line—yet one critical step remains: the driveway final payment. Release the check too early and you may lose leverage if problems pop up later. Wait too long and you risk souring a relationship with a contractor who still holds your warranty in their hands. Below you’ll learn exactly when, why, and how to hand over that last 10–20% so your project ends on a high note and your driveway stands strong for decades.
Why the Final Payment Is Your Last Line of Defense
Unlike kitchen remodels that stay indoors, driveways live outside in full view of neighbors, buyers, and your car’s suspension. A single low spot or hairline crack can turn into a pothole or weed highway within a year. The final check is your only remaining tool to guarantee:
- Work meets the written specifications (thickness, PSI, slope).
- Site is clean—no oil drips, no concrete splatter on siding.
- Warranty paperwork is signed and in your hand.
- Permits are closed and inspections passed.
Once money changes hands, asking for a return visit becomes a favor request instead of a contract obligation.
Industry-Standard Payment Schedule for Driveway Projects
Most reputable driveway contractors use a three-part draw:
- Deposit (10–25%): Holds your spot on the calendar and covers mobilization.
- Mid-point (50–70%): Due after base is compacted or forms are set, before concrete is poured or asphalt is laid.
- Final (10–20%): Released after final walk-through and all punch-list items are complete.
Never agree to “50% up front, 50% at the end”—that middle draw protects you if weather delays the job or the crew disappears.
12-Point Checklist to Complete Before Releasing the Driveway Final Payment
1. Conduct a Joint Final Inspection
Meet the foreman on-site the day after completion. Bring your contract, a 6-ft level, a tape measure, and a garden hose. Look for:
- Surface uniformity—no birdbaths (standing water deeper than 1/8 in).
- Edge chipping—concrete edges should be clean, not crumbling.
- Control joints—spaced ≤ 10 ft apart for concrete; straight and neat.
2. Verify Thickness & PSI
Ask the driver for the stamped batch ticket (concrete) or delivery slip (asphalt). Compare the printed PSI or compaction percentage to your contract. If you paid for 5-in. slab, core-drill a discreet spot near the garage—cost is <$75 and worth the peace of mind.
3. Check Color & Texture Match
Stamped or colored concrete can vary from the sample board. Wet the surface—if the hue still differs by more than 10%, request a topical stain or $200–$500 credit.
4. Site Cleanliness
No concrete splatter on brick, no asphalt tack on lawn, no rebar stakes in the planter. Trash bin should be empty and hauled away.
5. Sealer Application
Most decorative jobs include one coat of sealer 24–48 hrs after install. Confirm it was applied uniformly and is dry to the touch.
6. Written Warranty
Standard is 1 yr workmanship + manufacturer material warranty. Read the fine print: cracks wider than 1/4 in., settling > 1 in., or spalling > 10% of surface should be covered.
7. Lien Waiver & Paid-in-Full Receipt
Require a final unconditional lien waiver signed by both contractor and supplier. This prevents a material supplier from filing a lien on your home if the contractor skips town.
8. Closed Permits
Visit your city’s online permit portal. Status should read “Finalled” or “Closed.” An open permit can delay refinancing or sale.
9. Punch-List Signature
Create a one-page punch list, sign it together, and attach photos. Both parties keep a copy—this becomes Exhibit A if warranty work is needed.
10. Utility & Sprinkler Check
Run sprinkler zones to verify heads weren’t buried. Test outdoor lights and garage sensors that may have been moved.
11. Drainage Test
Run a hose at the high end of the drive for 5 minutes. Water should sheet into the street gutter or drain, not pool against garage or foundation.
12. Photo & Video Archive
Shoot a slow 360° video plus close-ups of joints, edges, and any cosmetic flaws. Date-stamp files—gold for future warranty claims.
Red Flags That Should Delay Final Payment
- Pressure to pay same day—“We need to pay the crew tonight.” Legit contractors have credit lines.
- No written warranty or a vague “call us if there’s a problem.”
- Refusal to provide lien waiver—a classic sign suppliers haven’t been paid.
- Surface still dark and oily (asphalt)—may mean insufficient compaction or too much binder.
- Visible cracks within 48 hrs—concrete can craze, but cracks > 1/8 in. signal base failure.
If any appear, withhold the final 10% until a third-party engineer or your city inspector weighs in.
How Much Should You Hold Back?
| Project Type | Typical Final % | Dollar Example ($8,000 Job) |
|---|---|---|
| Standard asphalt (no decorative) | 10% | $800 |
| Plain concrete broom finish | 10–15% | $800–$1,200 |
| Stamped/colored concrete | 15–20% | $1,200–$1,600 |
| Permeable pavers | 20% | $1,600 |
On high-end jobs ($25k+), split the final 20% into two 10% payments: first 10% after surface passes inspection, last 10% after 30-day “settle-in” period.
Best & Worst Payment Methods for the Final Draw
Recommended
- Bank-issued cashier’s check—provides paper trail and instant clearance.
- Credit card—gives 60-day dispute window (confirm contractor accepts it and won’t add surcharge).
Avoid
- Cash—no record, impossible to claw back.
- Personal check handed off-site—contractor can still claim “not paid” if check bounces.
- Zelle/Venmo for >$1,000—daily limits and zero buyer protection.
Write “Paid in Full – Driveway Contract #XYZ” in the memo line and photograph the signed check before handing it over.
Final Payment vs. Warranty Timeline
Concrete continues to hydrate and cure for 28 days; asphalt binder keeps hardening for 12 months. That means:
- Day 1–7: Surface appears perfect—this is the cosmetic honeymoon.
- Day 8–30: Hairline shrinkage cracks may appear; joints should control them.
- Month 2–12: Seasonal freeze-thaw or heavy RV traffic reveals weak spots.
Holding 10% for 30 days (called a retainage) is common on commercial jobs and perfectly reasonable for residential driveways over $10k. State the retainage clause in your original contract to avoid pushback later.
What If You Find Issues After Paying?
All is not lost. Follow these steps:
- Document with photos and a short video within 24 hrs of discovery.
- Email the contractor with subject: “Warranty Claim – [Your Address] – [Date].”
- Reference the warranty paragraph and attach the punch-list photo from final day.
- Give 10 business days for a written response; cc your city building dept. if no reply.
- Small-claims court max is $10k in most states; filing fee <$100 and you can sue for repair quotes plus court costs.
Pro tip: Angie's List, BBB, and Google reviews are leverage, but use them after you try the warranty route—public posts can trigger defamation countersuits.
Quick Timeline: When to Release the Driveway Final Payment
- Day 1: Install complete—do NOT pay yet.
- Day 2: Joint inspection & punch list—both parties sign.
- Day 3–5: Contractor fixes punch items.
- Day 6: You receive lien waiver + warranty + closed permit.
- Day 7: Hand over cashier’s check or process credit card.
For stamped concrete or paver jobs, add 7 extra days for sealer touch-ups and poly-sand curing.
Frequently Asked Questions About Driveway Final Payment
You can withhold only if the contract references a specific color sample or stamped pattern. Visual “close enough” is subjective; ask for a topical stain or negotiate a 5% credit instead of refusing full payment, which could trigger a lien.
No—this is a red flag. Cash leaves no paper trail and voids your ability to dispute the charge later. Politely refuse and offer a cashier’s check or credit card; legitimate companies have no problem reporting income.
Most residential contracts give homeowners 3–5 business days after written notice that work is complete. Holding payment longer can allow the contractor to file a lien or charge interest. If you need more time for inspections, communicate in writing and get an extension.
Hold back at least 5% until the city marks the permit “Final.” An open permit can delay refinancing or sale, and contractors are slower to respond once they’ve collected 100%.