Why the Final Inspection Matters
A sparkling new driveway can boost curb appeal by 5–10%, but only if it passes the city’s final sign-off. Fail the walk-through and you’re looking at re-work fees, delayed project close-out, and even a “red tag” that freezes your property sale. The good news? Most rejections are for a handful of easy-to-spot items. Use this Driveway Final Inspection Checklist the day before the municipal inspector arrives and you’ll walk into the review with confidence.
48 Hours Before the Inspector Arrives
Confirm the Permit Packet Is Complete
- Approved site plan (stamped “Released for Construction”)
- Receipts showing sewer/utility fees paid
- Engineer’s compaction report (for concrete or paver driveways over 500 ft²)
Tip: Scan everything to PDF and email it to yourself—mobile access saves trips to the truck.
Notify Neighbors & Post Temporary Markers
Cities often require 24-hour notice to adjacent owners. Print two copies of the notice: one for the neighbor, one photo-logged for your file. Drive temporary stakes at the right-of-way line so the inspector can see you respected the setback.
The 12-Point Driveway Final Inspection Checklist
Work top-to-bottom just like the inspector will.
1. Surface Elevation vs. Garage Floor
Code usually demands ½–1 inch drop in the first 10 ft to keep rain out of the garage. Lay a 4-ft level across the threshold; shim until the bubble just touches the line.
2. Cross-Slope for Drainage
Minimum 1% (⅛ in. per ft) toward the street or a swale. Use a laser or smartphone app; mark any low spots with chalk and grind high ridges before the inspector sees them.
3>Expansion Joints at Garage & Sidewalk
Pre-molded ½-in. asphalt filler should sit flush, not below the surface. If it’s recessed >¼ in., caulk will pond water and trigger a “fail.” Replace sunken strips the night before.
4. Apron & Right-of-Way Transition
Curb reveal must match city standard—often 2 in. above pavement. If the street was milled and repaved after your rough grade, measure again; the inspector will.
5. Reinforcement Placement (Concrete Only)
#4 rebar at 18 in. on-center or 6×6 WWM must sit in the middle third of the slab. Exposed mesh equals instant rejection. Snap a photo during the pour; inspectors love timestamp proof.
6>Thickness Verification
Core drill or sonar gauge: 4-in. nominal means no reading under 3.75 in. Mark three random spots; if any fail, dowel and patch before the review.
7. Surface Condition
No gouges wider than ¼ in. or deeper than ⅛ in., no spider cracks >⅛ in. at intersection. A quick hand-grind and cement slurry skim coat usually cures cosmetic flags.
8. ADA / Handicap Access (Corner Lots)
If your driveway is within 24 in. of a cross-slope pedestrian ramp, keep the grade break ≤8.33%. Set a straightedge 24 in. long; if daylight shows under the middle, re-pour that wedge.
9. Utility Clearances
Water meter lids must open fully; gas risers need 36 in. horizontal clearance. Temporarily remove decorative rock or mulch so the inspector can see clean lids.
10. Swale or Storm Drain Connection
Permit drawings show invert elevations. Pour a bucket of water—if it stands >48 hours, the swale is too flat. Jet-suction or add a trench drain before call-back.
11. Landscaping & Irrigation Heads
Sprinkler heads must be 18 in. back from edge of pavement; tree drip lines 36 in. Adjust or relocate any that violate the right-of-way.
12. Jobsite Clean-Up & Safety
Sweep all loose aggregate, cap rebar stubs, and remove caution tape. A tidy site signals “professional” and shortens the inspection by several minutes.
Top 5 Items That Trigger Re-Inspection Fees
- Wrong apron height: City repaved street after pour—apron now 1 in. too high.
- Missing contraction joints: Spacing >10 ft for 4-in. slab causes random cracking.
- Low spot in front of garage: Water ponds >⅛ in. deep in a 4-ft circle.
- Rebar too low or too high: Cover <2 in. risks spalling; >3 in. reduces load rating.
- Obstructed sight triangle: Shrub or fence within 10 ft of driveway corner.
Fixing any of these after the inspector leaves usually doubles the cost—schedule a pre-final with your contractor instead.
What a Re-Inspection Costs in Real Dollars
Fees vary by municipality, but here’s the typical range homeowners pay when the driveway fails the first review:
- Re-inspection fee: $75–$150
- Concrete removal & replacement (5 ft × 10 ft apron): $450–$650
- Grinding & overlay (asphalt): $2.50–$4.00 per ft²
- Engineer letter for revised drainage: $300–$500
Total surprises can top $1,200—far more than the 30 minutes it takes to run through the checklist above.
Pro Tips for a Same-Day Pass
Bring Your Own Tools
Inspector’s tape measure breaks? Hand him yours—keeps the mood cooperative. Carry: 25-ft tape, 4-ft level, laser, chalk, and a bucket for the water test.
Take “Proof Photos”
Time-stamped pictures of rebar placement, joint spacing, and wet concrete thickness back up your case if a question arises months later.
Schedule Morning Slots
Inspectors are fresher and less rushed before 10 a.m., especially on Fridays. You’re more likely to get practical advice instead of a flat reject.
Have a Patch Kit Ready
Fast-setting cement, polymer crack filler, and asphalt cold patch fit in a 5-gallon bucket. Small touch-ups done on the spot can convert a “fail” into an “accept with minor correction.”
FAQ: Driveway Final Inspection
Most reviews last 15–30 minutes for a standard two-car driveway. Complex apron reconstruction or corner lots with sidewalk ramps may take up to 45 minutes.
Only if the local ordinance allows “pervious gravel drives” and you install an approved geotextile base plus edging. Even then, many cities require a hard surface within 10 ft of the right-of-way. Check code before ordering stone.
Buyers’ lenders often ask for a “Certificate of Occupancy” or compliance letter. An open permit can delay closing, trigger escrow holdbacks ($1,000–$5,000), or force you to remove and reinstall the driveway under new codes. Always close the permit.
Most cities prefer the homeowner or contractor on-site to unlock gates, lift meter lids, and answer questions. If you can’t attend, authorize your contractor in writing and leave a copy of the permit packet on site.