Driveway Crack Sealing vs Crack Filling: What's Different?

Driveway Crack Sealing vs Crack Filling: Start Here

Cracks in an asphalt driveway never fix themselves. Left alone, they widen, let water reach the base, and turn into potholes that cost thousands to repair. The good news: early intervention is cheap and fast—if you pick the right method.

“Crack sealing” and “crack filling” sound interchangeable, but they use different materials, tools, and timing. Choose the wrong one and you’ll be re-doing the work next season. This guide breaks down the real differences, when to use each, and how to get the longest life from your driveway.

What Is Driveway Crack Sealing?

Sealing is the heavy-duty cousin of filling. It’s designed for working cracks—joints that open and close with temperature swings. A hot-applied rubberized sealant bonds the sidewalls but stays flexible, letting the crack move without breaking the bond.

How Sealing Works

1. Route (widen) the crack to a uniform ½" × ½" reservoir with a pavement router. This removes debris and creates clean edges.
2. Blow out dust with high-pressure air (some pros add heat lances to dry the void).
3. Apply 400°F hot-pour rubberized sealant with a wand or bander.
4. Over-band with a squeegee to leave a 2-inch “band-aid” that protects the seam.

Best Use Cases

• Cracks ¼"–1" wide that open in winter and close in summer
• Driveways younger than 10 years with sound surrounding pavement
• Regions that see freeze–thaw cycles or annual snowfall

Expected Life

When routed and sealed correctly, expect 5–8 years before the joint needs touch-up work.

What Is Driveway Crack Filling?

Filling treats static or low-movement cracks. Cold-pour asphalt emulsion or trowel-grade patching compound simply occupies the void and keeps water out. The material is less elastic, so it works best when the crack doesn’t change width.

How Filling Works

1. Clean loose debris with a screwdriver or 4-inch putty knife.
2. Pressure-wash or leaf-blow the crack until it’s dust-free.
3. Squeeze cold-pour filler from a jug or melt-in block with a propane torch.
4. Level with a V-shaped squeegee or gloved hand, leaving a slight crown to account for shrinkage.

Best Use Cases

• Hairline cracks narrower than ¼"
• Alligatored areas too far gone for sealing but not ready for resurfacing
• Budget-minded touch-ups before listing a home for sale

Expected Life

One to three seasons in climates with snowplows; up to five years in mild regions if the driveway is shaded.

Side-by-Side: Driveway Crack Sealing vs Crack Filling

Material Flexibility

Hot-pour sealants meet ASTM D6690 and stay elastic down to -40°F. Cold-pour fillers harden like the surrounding asphalt and can shear under traffic or thermal stress.

Application Temperature

• Sealing: 375–400°F; requires a kettle melter
• Filling: Ambient; bottle or bucket is shelf-stable

Surface Prep

Sealing demands a routed reservoir and spotless sidewalls. Filling only needs basic cleaning—no routing, no heat lance.

Cost per Linear Foot (2024 Averages)

Appearance

Sealing leaves a neat black band that blends with fresh sealcoating. Filler can look dull and may sink below grade, creating tiny valleys that collect dirt.

How to Decide: Sealing or Filling?

Step 1: Measure Crack Width and Movement

Slide a feeler gauge or flathead screwdriver into the crack in mid-summer, then again in mid-winter. If the gap changes by more than ⅛", treat it as a working crack—seal it.

Step 2: Check Age and Base Condition

Driveways under eight years old usually have a stable stone base; spend the extra 50¢ per foot and seal. Older drives with fatigue cracking (interconnected “alligator” pattern) are past the sealing window—fill minor voids or resurface.

Step 3: Budget vs. Longevity

Planning to sell in two years? Filling plus a coat of sealer dresses up the driveway for under $300 on a typical 20×40 ft. drive. Staying put for a decade? Sealing pays for itself by delaying full replacement.

Step 4: Climate Zone

• Freeze zones (USDA 1–5): Seal every working crack before the first frost.
• Warm zones (6–7): Filler plus sealcoat every three years is usually adequate.

DIY or Hire a Pro?

DIY Crack Filling

All big-box stores sell 1-gallon jugs of latex asphalt filler for $12–$18. One jug covers roughly 75 ft of ¼" crack. Work on a sunny 50°F-plus day so the compound cures fast. Wear disposable gloves and old shoes—the stuff is messy.

DIY Crack Sealing (What Nobody Tells You)

Hot-pour blocks must hit 400°F; a turkey fryer burner or double boiler won’t cut it safely. Melter kettles rent for $200 per day and weigh 200 lb when full. Add $40 for safety gear (high-temp gloves, face shield). Unless you have 200+ feet of crack, the math favors hiring a pro.

Red Flags When Hiring a Contractor

• Quotes by the bucket instead of linear foot—no way to compare value
• No routing on a driveway younger than 10 years (skimping on prep)
• Cold-pour material in a pump sprayer masquerading as “sealing”
• No mention of over-banding or blotting sand (needed so tires don’t pick up fresh sealant)

Maintenance Tips After Sealing or Filling

24-Hour Cure Window

Keep cars, bikes, and basketballs off the driveway for at least one full day. Hot-pour sealant feels hard in 30 minutes but continues to cure internally.

Annual Inspection

Every spring, walk the driveway with a spray bottle of soapy water. If the soap disappears into a crack, water can too—touch up that spot.

Sealcoat on Schedule

Sealcoating locks down the filled cracks and protects the virgin asphalt. Plan on it every 3–4 years in the sunbelt, every 2–3 years where salt and plows hit.

Stop Water at the Edges

Install gutter downspout extensions so roof runoff doesn’t wash across the driveway. Edge cracks originate from repeated water flow, not traffic.

Environmental & Safety Notes

Hot-pour sealants are petroleum-based; leftover blocks go to hazardous-waste collection. Cold-pour latex formulas clean up with water—safer for DIY and pets. Either way, keep material off concrete and brick; the oils stain permanently.

Frequently Asked Questions