Driveway Coating Products Comparison: The Fast Track to a Fresh, Protected Surface
A tired, gray driveway drags down curb appeal faster than overgrown shrubs. The right coating can restore rich color, block UV rays, resist oil drips, and add years to the life of your asphalt or concrete. But walk into any big-box store and you’ll see shelves packed with “sealer,” “sealcoat,” “resurfacer,” “epoxy,” and “polyurea.” Which one is actually best for your driveway, climate, and budget?
This driveway coating products comparison cuts through marketing jargon and gives you the real-world pros, cons, and price tags of the five most common options. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to buy—or what to ask your contractor to use.
The Big Five: Types of Driveway Coatings Explained
1. Coal-Tar Emulsion Sealer (CTS)
The old-school workhorse still used on mall parking lots. Coal-tar is a by-product of steel manufacturing, refined into a thick black emulsion.
- Best for: Asphalt driveways in hot, sunny climates (UV protection is unbeatable).
- Pros: Cheapest per square foot; excellent gas/oil resistance; deep, dark finish.
- Cons: Strong odor; banned in some cities for high PAH content; slippery when wet unless contractor adds sand.
- Life span: 3–5 years.
2. Asphalt Emulsion Sealer (AES)
Basically asphalt cement suspended in water with clay stabilizers—no coal tar.
- Best for: Homeowners who want a low-VOC, city-approved product.
- Pros: Jet-black color; faster curing; environmentally friendlier.
- Cons: Softer film; petroleum drips soften it quicker; slightly higher cost than coal-tar.
- Life span: 2–4 years.
3. Acrylic Polymer Sealer
Plastic-based resin that cures into a clear or tinted breathable membrane.
- Best for: Decorative concrete or exposed aggregate driveways.
- Pros: UV-stable colors (red, terra cotta, slate gray); non-yellowing; 48-hour cure.
- Cons: 2–3× the price of asphalt sealer; needs spotless surface to bond.
- Life span: 5–7 years.
4. Epoxy Concrete Coatings
Two-part 100 % solids epoxy rolled onto bare concrete, often topped with colored flakes for grip.
- Best for: Garage pads, sloped driveways, or show-piece entries that see tire traffic but no snow plows.
- Pros: Rock-hard; chemical-proof; stunning high-gloss.
- Cons: Brittle in freeze zones; surface prep is everything (grind or shot-blast); yellows without UV-stable topcoat.
- Life span: 7–10 years (with UV topcoat).
5. Polyurea / Polyaspartic Topcoats
The new “1-day driveway” systems contractors advertise on radio spots. Originally developed for truck-bed liners.
- Best for: Homeowners who want maximum durability, fast return to service, and are okay paying premium prices.
- Pros: Flexible (won’t crack); chemical & salt resistant; cures in 2 hrs—even in 32 °F weather; clear or tinted.
- Cons: DIY kits run $400–$600 for only 250 sq ft; professional installs only economical at 500 + sq ft.
- Life span: 10–15 years.
Side-by-Side Performance Chart
| Coating Type | Cost (DIY per sq ft) | UV Resistance | Chemical Resistance | Slip Resistance* | DIY Friendly | Recoat Years |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coal-Tar Emulsion | $0.08–$0.12 | Excellent | Excellent | Poor (add sand) | Moderate | 3–5 |
| Asphalt Emulsion | $0.10–$0.15 | Good | Fair | Poor (add sand) | Easy | 2–4 |
| Acrylic Polymer | $0.25–$0.35 | Excellent | Good | Fair | Easy | 5–7 |
| 100 % Solids Epoxy | $0.75–$1.00 | Poor (needs topcoat) | Excellent | Excellent (with flakes) | Hard | 7–10 |
| Polyurea / Polyaspartic | $1.50–$2.25 | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent (with chips) | Pro only | 10–15 |
*Slip resistance without additive aggregate.
How to Choose the Right Coating for YOUR Driveway
Step 1: Identify the Surface
- Asphalt: Stick to coal-tar, asphalt emulsion, or acrylic.
- Concrete: Acrylic, epoxy, or polyurea. Never use coal-tar; it won’t bond.
Step 2: Factor Your Climate
- Sun Belt: UV is enemy #1—coal-tar or acrylic.
- Snow Belt: Freeze-thaw and salt—polyurea wins, followed closely by epoxy with a UV topcoat.
Step 3: Calculate Traffic Load
- Light cars only? Any product works.
- Work trucks, RVs, or boat trailers? Skip DIY sealer and go polyurea or at least epoxy.
Step 4: Check Local Rules
Some counties ban high-PAH coal-tar. Verify on your city website or ask the building department before you buy 5 gallons.
Step 5: Decide DIY vs. Pro
Coal-tar and asphalt emulsion are forgiving for DIY. Epoxy and polyurea demand diamond grinding, moisture testing, and fast squeegee work—hire it out unless you like high-stress weekends.
Prep Makes or Breaks the Job
Even the best product will peel if the surface is dirty or damp. Follow this checklist:
- Clean: Pressure-wash at 2,500–3,000 PSI. Remove all moss, oil, and loose stones.
- Treat oil spots: Scrub with degreaser, rinse, then sprinkle cat litter overnight.
- Repair cracks: Fill ¼-in+ cracks with polymer-modified crack filler. Level smooth before coating.
- Edge grass: Trim back 2 in so sealer can kiss the edge.
- Watch weather: 50–85 °F, no rain for 24 hrs, humidity below 70 %.
- Mask: Use 6-mil plastic and 2-in painter’s tape on garage doors, brick edging, and sidewalks.
Real-World Cost Breakdown for a 600 sq ft Driveway
DIY Coal-Tar Emulsion
- 6 x 5-gal pails @ $22 each = $132
- Crack filler & patch = $40
- Application tools (squeegee, brush) = $35
- Total: $207 (≈ $0.35 per sq ft)
DIY Acrylic Color Sealer
- 10 x 1-gal @ $38 = $380
- Cleaner/etch = $25
- Anti-slip additive = $20
- Total: $425 (≈ $0.71 per sq ft)
Professional Polyurea System
- Surface prep (grind, vacuum) = $350
- Base + color flakes + topcoat = $1,350
- Total: $1,700 (≈ $2.83 per sq ft)
Environmental & Health Notes
- Coal-tar: Contains polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Wear nitrile gloves, long sleeves, and a NIOSH-rated respirator. Keep kids and pets off for 48 hrs.
- Low-VOC asphalt emulsion: Safer for DIY but still rinse tools in a bucket—never down the storm drain.
- Epoxy & polyurea: Isocyanates in some two-part kits; use supplied-air respirator or hire certified installers.
Top Brands Worth Buying
We’ve field-tested dozens. These consistently win on spreadability, color retention, and warranty:
- Coal-Tar: SealMaster Coal Tar Sealer, GemSeal CT
- Asphalt Emulsion: Latex-ite Airport Grade, Henry 532
- Acrylic: Foundation Armor AR350, DryWay Water-Based Acrylic
- Epoxy: Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD, Epoxy-Coat Full Kit
- Polyurea: Penntek PENT-250, Garage Force 4196 (pro-only)
Maintenance Cheat Sheet
- Wait 24–48 hrs before driving on fresh sealer (72 hrs for polyurea).
- Sweep leaves monthly; tannic acid stains acrylics.
- Rinse off gas, oil, or fertilizer within 24 hrs—don’t let them pool.
- Re-seal asphalt every 3 years, acrylic every 5–7, polyurea every 10.
- Use a plastic shovel; metal blades scratch epoxy and polyurea topcoats.
Frequently Asked Questions
Foot traffic: 4–6 hrs for asphalt emulsion, 2 hrs for polyurea. Vehicular traffic: wait 24 hrs minimum for sealers, 48–72 hrs for epoxy or polyurea in cool weather. Humidity and shade extend cure time—if in doubt, give it an extra day.
Only if the old layer is sound and adhesion-tested. Press duct tape firmly to 5 spots; rip off quickly. If tape lifts the old sealer, you must strip or power-wash aggressively. For polyurea or epoxy, always diamond-grind to bare concrete for a mechanical bond.
99 % of the time it’s surface contamination—oil, silicone from tire shine, or moisture trapped underneath. Another culprit: applying too thick. Sealer should be no more than 12 mils wet; thicker films skin over and slide off. Scrape loose areas, re-clean, patch, and re-seal only those spots.
Counties around Austin, TX; Washington DC; and several Minnesota cities have banned high-PAH coal-tar. Check your municipality’s environmental services page or call the storm-water department. If banned, switch to asphalt emulsion or acrylic—they perform almost as well and keep you compliant.